Ok, so having sorted out the rudder bracket I moved on to the upper pivot. The hole for the rudder was drilled in the hull (using the usual precautions) and the rudder pivot tube checked for fit (fig1).

fig 1

At this point I discovered that a casting (part no’ 172 - rudder top tube) was missing from the kit (fig 2). Now if this was due to having the “twin screw” version of the hull I cannot be sure, never the less I was unhappy with the idea of the pivot just being glued in place with no additional support. 

fig 2

 

fig 3

Having studied the plans it soon became clear that the rudder lower bracket is too long or the gap in the hull moulding too short (or both).  So as you can see in the pictures below I have had to shorten the bracket by a substantial amount.

This casting is a pig. It is bent, not symmetrical, it is too long, too wide and even the countersunk hole is not in the middle. To be honest by the time I had finally made it fit to my satisfaction (lots of filing and sanding) I would have been better off making a complete replacement. Anyhow, I wanted to make this part removable in order to service the rudder should the need arise. So I drilled a 6mm hole in the bottom of the hull and inserted a rawlplug as shown below.

Using a 3mm brass countersunk bolt the bracket is held securely in place (however I will be using some epoxy resin as I shall describe later).

The final two photos show the rudder in place with the bracket screwed in to position. When I have completed the final assembly of the rudder and props the bracket will be “smoothed” in using filler as with the other parts ready for painting.

I am sorry to report that there has been little progress. This is due to several factors, but mainly because I have not been feeling too well. Also I am not very good at jumping about from one area of a build to another, so although I know there is a lot of work I could be getting on with I cannot get my head around doing it. It’s just the way I do things I guess. 

In addition I need to get the propellers fitted so that I can be sure of all my measurements before gluing the propshafts in position and starting on the rudder. I have been recommended some 75mm four bladed propellers. I have ordered these from Westbourne Models and await their arrival.

Anyway, I have had some excellent advice from several modellers regarding the rudder. Some I have taken, some not. Because the rudder is a whitemetal casting on a brass spindle there is a risk of slippage, and I have decided that I will modify the rudder at a later date should that happen. Also there is no sensible way to remove the rudder should it require repair or lubrication. So I will be making my own tiller arm and modifying the upper and lower rudder bearings in order to facilitate lubrication and removal. All of the rudder components are shown below (fig 1).

fig 1

As can be seen in fig 2 the lower bearing does not fit correctly on the hull. The plan clearly shows the rudder fitted tight up to the stem (fig 3) so major modification of the lower bearing is required anyway.

fig 2

fig 3